Similarly, when preparing said food, it is useful to have temporary food associated storage for tools such as pans, dishes, glassware, etc. So, we're building those into Annie.
People would look at us funny if we said we were building Annie's mouths, so let's just say we're building her kitchen cabinetry. We've already built the counter and lower cabinet.
In this entry, we build and install Annie's upper
There are two cabinets over the counter. they are 13" deep at their base, and 13"high at the front. Since the wall and ceiling are sloped, things narrow down toward the rear...to approximately 12" deep and 11 3/8" high.
The frames are made from box-jointed 1.5"x.75" maple.
Test fitting the frame:
Both frames are built, and floor is test-fitted:
Test fitting the rear box.
Rear box, its bottom and rear panels ready for poly finish.
The rear box is mounted. The box is supported by screwing upper frame members into the wood rafters running the length of Annie (described in a much earlier blog entry). Those rafters are also the attachment points for the ceiling bead-board.
The front facing upper frame also holds the door piano hinge.The rear box also screws into the side wall. Can't do that with the front box, because the wall is made of no-drill-zone boron steel around the sliding door. Turns out that the rear's wall screws aren't really necessary anyways. Neither box is going anywhere.
Base panels and light are installed.
Repeating the process with the front box. The boxes are identical, except that I added an aluminum sheet to the bottom of the front. It sits over the hob, and the aluminum should make splatter cleanup easier.
Building the
The doors are mounted. We're using a 100N gas strut to hold it open, and a pair of neodymium magnets to hold it closed.
The finished product:
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