Ceiling insulation, part two

Now we're adding the second level of rigid foam to the ceiling.
First, I needed to snake the solar panel cable out of the way and down where the controller will live.

 

The cable is routed through the channel above the rear window, and down the rearmost sidewall post.

Prepped the controller's mounting place with VHB

Zip tied the cable to a sidewall support.

Now we're ready to add the second layer of polyiso rigid foam.This is pretty much a repeat of the first layer's procedure. We are almost exclusively using VHB tape as our adhesive. Then adding expanding foam around each board's perimeter.

As you can see, the rigid foam is only being run in between the ceiling ribs. We'll be adding Reflectix across the whole ceiling (including ribs), but with about a 1/2" space between the Reflectix and the rib/foam boards. I'll talk about this more in Ceiling insulation, part three...coming soon to a device near you.

The front section of ceiling was the most challenging, because it has a complex curve and some fancy shmancy stamping. The initial foam layer was 1/2", which brought the foam below the fancy shmancy stuff. I had originally planned to also make the second layer from 1/2" foam panel, because I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to form that curve with a thicker panel.. Unfortunately, I was running very low on 1/2". Wasn't enough to cover with one piece.
So I decided to try the 1" stuff. With a bit of crunching with my roller pin, I was able to make it conform pretty well.

So I used just a teeny a bit extra VHB. Hopefully it's enough to hold up the 5lb worth of foam board. :)

Cut the board to size and to clear the Transit's Styrofoam airbag covers.

Mounted the board, added spray foam, and this step is done. (Well, as soon as I remove the painter's tape and plastic sheet.)

Boy, AGM batteries are heavy!!!!!

I fnally picked up (with difficulty) a couple of 4D size AGM batteries. (about 200AH each). They weigh about 125lb each. The battery tray is quite a bit bigger than them, and is rated to support 400 pounds.
I made up some spacers to keep the batteries from sliding around, and strapped them in.

It works pretty well, but I may end up with some sort of turnbuckle hold-down to replace the straps.

The only problem occurs when going up a hill. The stock latch is completely inadequate to keep the tray from sliding open. I cannot understand how the manufacturer thinks that dinky latch can hold back 250lbs. You may remember that latch from when I installed the slide:

So, I added a couple of additional latches.

Made 'em out of 1" wide, 1/4" aluminum stock. Two pieces are VHB'd together to make a 1/2" thick unit. Perfect clearance. The pieces are long enough to just touch the top of the tray (under the lip) and the bottom of the base. They are held in place by 1/4" bolts and nylocks.

Ceiling insulation, part one

The ceiling insulation will be 1.5" of foil backed rigid foam, with a layer of reflectix between the foam boards and the bead-board that will be the finished ceiling. The foam is mounted with VHB.
Because of the window hassles, I've only done the first layer so far.

The layer is sealed with expanding foam.

The first layer is 1" thick board, the second will be half inch thick. I will also foam the edges of the second board.

There will be a layer of Reflectix  after that, and then the actual birch bead-board ceiling. Power for ceiling can lights will run between the Reflectix and the 1/2" foam board, with adequate service loop wherever we end up mounting the lights. Determining that is something that will be done experimentally.

Catching up: WIndow repair. It took a a while, but I can see clearly now

Sorry for the lag in updating here.
Things got put on hold a bit while waiting for a replacement slider window.

Back in early August we noticed that a hinge failed on the slider window's pop-out section. The hinges are glued to the glass, and the lower one failed thus:

Made an appointment with the dealer's body shop. They re-glued it, and said "come on down!"
But, by the time I arrived, their glue job had failed. The shop decided that the best course was to replace the entire window, so they ordered one. Body shop and I agree it's best to not drive much with the window hanging by one hinge.

We were told the window would be delivered in a few days. Since I didn't want to have projects hanging half done, we held off work. About a week later, the dealer said that it wasn't coming, because it needed to be supplied by the window manufactuter, not Ford. They then ordered from the "correct" place, and said it would be about a week.. We started the vinyl floor work.

The week passes, and no window. Come to find out that the manufacturer shipped it by mule train, using 3 legged mules. Told it would be another week or so. We finish up the floor. Didn't want to start the next project since I didn't want to have projects hanging half done. (This becomes a familiar theme.)

About 1.5 weeks later, we get a call...the window got to Seattle, but it was broken in transit. I guess 3 legged mules have a harsh ride, or the mule team driver missed with his whip...

Window is reordered. Same stories about shifting delivery times, same feeling that I didn't want to start the next project since I didn't want to have projects hanging half done. I attempt to glue the hinge myself with industrial strength epoxy. Success!! Except that I was a bit overgenerous with the epoxy, and left a nice bit of drool hanging from the hinge and stuck on the pop-out glass. At least, now I can drive Annie.

Window finally arrives at the dealer...broken.

Dealer gets Ford involved. This time the manufacturer packages the window intelligently, and sends it via an express mule with a full complement of legs. Takes about a week to get here. I start the ceiling insulation work, and stop at a safe to drive point. 

Window arrives safely, dealer makes an appointment with the glass installer to do the work. Finally got the new window in this past Monday.

Next entry brings the Annie project up to date.