Thursday, January 5, 2017

We may need to relocate to Narnia

In order to get there, one apparently needs a coat closet. So we built one. It even has the tools to watch the 3 DVD set of travel and native culture instructions.

The closet is aft of the fridge. So the first step is to prepare that side of the fridge's framing for the closet wall.

Then we cut the wall panel to match the curvy Annie wall and ceiling profiles.

Then laminated and similarly contoured a 3/4" thick panel with an outer maple surface as the rear wall of our Narnia getaway machine.

Then we started on the frame

Next up are the shelves and lights:

Then testing to ensure that there will be sufficient photon power to propel us to Narnia.

Verifying that the Narnia Navigation Device (NND) actually fits:

The NND is held down during inter-dimensional travel by this mechanical adhesive system:

It is essential that a coat closet actually hold coats. Otherwise, the Narnia border patrol might send us back. So we added a coat hanger assembly, and a coat. They seem to function as expected.

All seems in order, so we next screw the cabinet to the fridge frame and the rear wall that I neglected to write about installing. Then wire up the photon drives and NND.

I held off installing the rear wall until now so I could more easily access all the stuff (like the rear screws and the wiring). But now it's time to screw up that wall. I added a couple of angle brackets to tie the wall to the ceiling "joists" that also hold up the ceiling beadboard.

Then screwed the wall...exactly what it sounds like...and began installing the NND's display interface (NNDDI).
The NNDDI has a swivel mount, which is bolted through the rear closet wall.
The swivel will have a lock-down clamp (yet to be built) which will minimize movement during those bumpy inter-dimensional rides.

The NNDDI will normally sit just below the rear overhead compartments. Those are yet to be built. Unlike many commercial airlines, the will be no additional charge to use those compartments.

Next we add a photon drive enabler/dis-abler. Wouldn't want the drive to always be running, now would we?

The NND and NNDDI have rather tinny sound quality. There is room next to the photon switch (above the NND) for a DIN1 size stereo unit. We may, at some point, install one.
But I do have a tin ear, so maybe not.

Next we start to design the kitchen cabinet and counter.

Friday, November 4, 2016

Forget the wall, we're gonna build a bed.

And it will be the cushiest bed ever to be installed in Annie. That I can tell you...bigly.
Any bed needs well defined borders. Otherwise, it ceases to be a bed, and just becomes a collection of lazy stuffed cushions. It also needs to be framed with good old American support. But the frame itself can be from China.

So we started off following the suggestions of folks who have used Harbor Freight 'cycle/ATV ramps as the bed frame, which will be proudly supported on the walls of the American made Transit.

The plan is to support the frame on some angle bracket bolted to the walls
Test measuring:

The frame itself is just a bit short. The frame's tailgate brackets are a bit long. What to do? What to do?

I decided to make some inserts that would fit in the frame and extend out the right length.
Something like these:
 OK, exactly like those. But with mounting holes to bolt to the angle bracket.

And placed the the frame with VHB tape and pop rivets.

I'm using 2 " aluminum angle bracket (1/8" thick stock) sandwiched between the wall coroplast and the wall. I'm using the existing coropalst mounting holes, but stuffing them with 1/4-20 jack nuts.

Drilled out the holes in the channel, and bolted it up.

I need the frame to be 74" from front to rear. Each ATV ramp comes as 3 hinged sections. 74" works out to 5 sections, or approximately 1.6666666666666666666667 ramp assemblies. I removed one ramp section by having it watch this election cycle on TV, until it became partly unhinged. (I used the left over section in the test measurement photo.)

The ramps now fit on the support channels, so I drill out the channel, and bolt them together. Using 1'4-20 bolts and nylocks.

The frame is installed.
As you can see, the label on the frame reminded me that I had to ramp up our efforts by adding support slats for the mattress. We will want to provide adequate air flow to the mattress bottom, since a camper is a small enclosed, often humid environment.

I cut 2" wide slats from a sheet of 1/2" ACX ply, sanded and varnished them. Then I pre-drilled them to screw into the frame

Busy screwing up:

Using 1/4" thick cedar strips and 3M 90 on the remaining exposed frame members. That gets all the slats at a common height.

Frame is done:

It's time to make our bed so we can lay in it.
We got a 7" memory foam mattress. It comes very squashed.

But the head of the aesthetics committee quickly determines that it will be an excellent embedded firmware/software solution.

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Simply Adoorable

The doors of the bathless bath are built and installed.
There are 2 doors, each approximately 1 foot wide and just under 6 feet tall. The height of the door frame and doors is set by Annie's roof slope over the cab.
The frames are box jointed, and covered with maple ply as the outside wall and birch ply as the inside wall.

Internally, they have 2 center crossbars, one at 36" up and the other at 42". These will act as reinforcement points for things like towel bars (or possibly towel pubs for English or Celtic themed towels).
I forgot to take pics of the crossbars.

The doors are edge-banded on the verticals, and hung with piano hinges. Thus the doors could also be used in piano bars.

The doors are "latched" in the closed position by magnets. I mounted 2 strong magnets in the top of the door-frame, each at 2" in from the frame's centerline.

I had hoped that these magnets would hold onto the doors with just fender washers in the doors, but the hold was way too weak.

I ended up routing a slot in the door. and mounting 3" bar magnets. No pics of them.

Hanging a falsely accused door, and testing the magnetic latching.

This is an animated GIF. It may not loop properly. If it isn't moving, try double clicking on it, or try refreshing this page.

Here are some pics of the finished doors.
From the outside:

And from the inside:

Friday, September 2, 2016

We're gonna build a wall

It'll be the greatest wall ever. We're gonna build it to keep those nasty drivers out of the bathless bath...and we're gonna pay for it!!! Trust me.

In fact, we're so great, we've already built it.

We made sure the studly frame members would appeal to our base by boxing (box jointing) them into it.

We continued to frame some innocent, legal 1x2 strips. We put them under a lot of pressure, but they didn't break:

Test fitting:

We cut the the bath side wall panel to match the ceiling curve and accommodate the styrofoam airbag actuator. This wall is maple.
We then glued the panel to the frame, and screwed the frame to the floor and ceiling, making sure that the door opening spacing was right.

Added the door header. 
There will be 2 12" wide doors. They will mount with piano hinges to the instrument wall and the driver wall. The current plan is to build them with very strong magnets in the frames that will hold the doors in position when closed

We cut the driver side wall panel to size, and screwed that to the frame. No glue on this side because it would be difficult to properly apply the glue and then clamp the panel. This wall is birch bead-board.

 Views with the door header installed:

Now to build the doors. Hopefully, they will be absolutely adoorable.